The Build Table
The construction surface is the foundation for the rest of the build. It must be level and sturdy enough not to flex under the weight of the frame. It should also allow the frame tubes to be clamped to the table to stop movement during assemble and welding. A good table and attention to build dimensions will most times lead to a car with closer tolerances than your mass produced auto. your back will also thank you if you set it to a comfortable height.
I intended to construct my table from 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF with studs mounted between them for strength. Upon mentioning this to a friend, he offered some staging he had on hand. It is 4'X8' with an aluminum frame and cross beams. The legs have 1/2" height adjustment, but in my case the slope of my drive required 3".
The top and bottom of the build table
The build area.
Time to get started.
I am using a compound miter saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the 1" 16swg square tubes. Here are the first four tubes cut to length. They will be secured to the table before tack welding. The miter saw seems to make good cuts with only a dressing of the ends with a file. I purchased this Hobart weld made by Miller. It was the largest 110V unit they had. I have used it for a few home projects over the last few months, and it seems to be a good welder.
04-08-2007
Today I cut and assembled each of the sections of tubing for the lower half of the frame. I wanted to go farther, but ran out of gas in the mig. It seems there is a leak in my NEW regulator. Buying a name brand does not assure you of no problems. At least it has a warrantee.
04-17-07
I have been stalled the last few days. The wind has been blowing to hard to weld. This is the only drawback to a mig welder outside.
I used the down time to cut the L section tubes, uprights and top rails.
I will say, the two vertical tubes on the L section seemed to give me fits. I kept coming up to short, then turned one tube 90degrees before the second cut. I ended up cutting 7 tubes to get two
that were right. I am glad I was able to use the bad cuts for the 10" tubes in the rear and the uprights so I minimized the waste.
Today it calmed down enough to do some welding. I installed the uprights and the L section.
04-18-07
I made some more progress today. I also used the last of my first 9 tubes. I have some ends left to cover some of the reinforcements.
The supplier here will cut any length from 1 to 24" tubes for $1.11 per foot. I should have sat down and figured the best lengths to buy to minimize waste. Tomorrow, I wil pick up some more.
The rear and top rails were installed and the frame now looks kind of like a boat.
At this point the frame weighs 52 pounds.
It is embarrassing to sit in the frame and make motor noises, but it is required at this point.
04-24-07
This is the SHO engine which normaly sits transverse, bolted to 2001 Ford Ranger 5spd to convert it to RWD.
The first pic is the engine and trans set in the frame for some initial test fitting. In the second pic, you can see the additional frame tubes/bracing installed around the engine.
The build has been a little slow the last week, but a got a little done including welding many of the joints.
I will get the trans tunnel done in the next day or so.
I now have the weights on the major components.
Engine 385
Trans 90
Rear axle loaded with brakes 170
Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate 32lbs.
I am looking into a different pressure plate as the stock one is cast iron.
I will have the spindles tomorrow to weigh.
Here is the rear behind the frame and then the rear stipped of it brackets.
Then rear is from an 86 Trans Am
85-88 TransAm
61" WMS width
Plate type LSD
Disc brake
Pinion is offset to the passenger side 3/4"
5X4.75 wheel pattern
10.5" brake rotor
Factory ratios 2.77, 3.27, 3.45, 3.70
Weight 190 with all brackets attached and cast calipers.
The 89 Aluminum claipers will fit with the matching rotors. Final weight 170.
There are a whole lot of 1" joints to weld. It seems as every time I rotate/move the frame, I find another one I missed.
